how to lighten shell cordovan

If my shoe size is UK 8.5 and most of my trousers leg openings are 18.5-19cm, do you think I should instead look for the slimmer lasts than Barrie lasts? NW1) and knitwear though. I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. Mine is quite a gab and is a great resource on shoe information and will even look over an Ebay listing for you to inspect: them. Can you just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and patina away? How much is too much? That it fits in almost everywhere. Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). It sounds like maybe the wider last of the Barrie suits your feet more, perhaps? Did Trump tax exports of leather soled shoes? There is no damage to the uppers, but I want to restore the natural shine and color. Gents! A very elegant and distinctive casual shoe. Do you mind telling if you have same size on Alden shoes on Barrie and Van last and are they the same width? Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. Ive walked around Canada, the US, the UK (even some hills in the Lake District), France and Switzerland in these shoes. Thank you, Simon. Is this correct? As Nick Horween told us on that tannery visit, this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. For reference, I already have Belgravias in dark oak, black calf, dark brown suede and snuff suede. Isidore Horween made this adjustment after the invention of the disposable razor which decreased the demand for razor strops. Speaking of black, I bought those EG loafers in black cordovan largely for its toughness, but it doesnt have the same variation as colour 8, and therefore charm. Worth every short term pinch! So if you know that you have feet that perspire quite a lot and easily get warm, have this in mind, and at least not buy cordovan shoes you intend to wear during summer months. I bought some cordovan (Horween) derby from Churchs some time ago thinking that they were going to get that kind of patina that Aldens colour 8 gets and, unfortunately, it never happened. Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? And they can both be brushed out. A couple of questions if you wouldnt mind: 1. Would you advise to work with black cream to darken it? No worries at all all comments are always welcome, on any vaguely related post. Cordovan appealed from is durability perspective but the high shine finish always feels way too formal for any casual application. Not trying to be a snob! What should I be looking for, on the good or bad side? As for colour choice and material of the Alden loafer, what do you recommend? I recommend doing so - with a cloth - before you wear them or when you want them to look particularly good. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. Thanks so much and take care! 3. Hi, Obviously thats niche interest (perhaps just me) but it could be an opportunity to flex some skills with a different set of constraints. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. How would you compare Alden & Edward Greens Greenwich in Cordovan burgundy? Ill have to check some of the online guides further. The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). Enjoy. very interesting article, as always. Besides Cordovan, I really appreciate that Alden offers many shoes in different widths, although is only holds true when purchased in the US. Most leathers for shoes are by-products of the meat. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. At that time I dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan. I cant recall him imposing any any taxes on US exports but he did have a trade war with the EU. Prototype meaning that its not available on BHL just yet? Unlike natural veg tan cowhide leather, Shell Cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the tanning process. Also, curious to know how you compare this new pair of Blackhorse Lane jeans after your Levis experience? It would be super cool to see you commission something vegan just to see whats achievable if you apply the same craft and taste to a different material. Id seen a few examples of #8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear. Andy Vaughn is the brains behind Pure Polish, a complete line of 100% natural and biodegradable shoe care products made in small batches in Bend Oregon. What is the right fit for it? Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. I guess one factor in the generalisation is that outside the US, we mostly see the more casual models. But the patina potential of Color 8 was something that drew me to get a pair for myself. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? Or did I choose the wrong colour? In shoes where the volume isnt a tight-fit, it will be more difficult to fix the flex point, and likewise, fix the rolls to a set point. Hi, They looked like E.T. At the very least, if you think that on leather for shoes, you should be a vegetarian. The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. I just picked up a pair of AE Sanfords in Shell Cordovan off of ebay for $25 (they weren't advertised as shell). Would you wear these with a black belt (or just stick to going beltless)? . Bundle of Thanks again. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. Im glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly. General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. Cleverley made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the top. Thank you Simon, I would be interested to look into that too. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. Id love to see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes. Theyre also a bit smaller in the waist, but thats a fit thing, not a style one, 2. In terms of patina, the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing. Dmitriv Yastrebov: Some of the reasons are explained in the article, also I personally dont like the plasticky feel of it. The production of Horween's Genuine Shell . I prefer them with wider trousers, or shorts. Because shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products. The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. Cut the Fat: Wear shell enough and you'll start to notice white streaks forming around the creases. The reason is that while the waterproof nature might be the big attraction for you, it isnt for everyone or hasnt been the reason theyve been worn in the past. Shell cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors. Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? To see if this would work, I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing. I think its unlikely theyll stretch. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it (cheaper than travelling, and currently available). And then theres the general quality of workmanship. Ensure its the correct sizing. I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. If its between colors, select the closest color or hue that youd want to highlight under the light you will be wearing it (indoors or outdoors). Finally, its worth noting that cordovan differs a lot depending on from who you purchase the shoes, and of course from which tannery the cordovan comes from. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. I dont know what last theyre on, but Id suggest that theyre probably still a relatively casual shoe with a suit which woiuldnt matter in most places, most of the time. In your article about your Belgravian loafer, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes. r/goodyearwelt Alden Whiskey Shell Longwings . But perhaps because I carry on using cream now and again. Have you been happy with your boots in general? Although not a number 8, I really like those cordovan Vass. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. Does the colour 8 vary that much from pair to pair? I think those will look great. Rubbing it vigorously has a similar effect, and produces more of a shine. Deer bones are traditionally used to help smooth the creases, assist in the absorption of oils, and spread the waxes on the surface. I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. I havent tried it David, no. Sure, though to be honest I dont think theres anything to how to wear them. The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap. Remember its already pretty oily. Hmm. Am I alone therefore in finding it curious to see its use in loafers and often offered with leather soles? Im looking forward to stopping by! Send them to a cobbler who know Church or Cordovan? Interesting read. But it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street. What would you replace that Saphir recolorant with? Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? Im curious to see how their loafers for example, compare to those by aldens. The leather was mostly used as leather strops to hone razors as well as for luxurious trunks and wall hangings before advances in leather tanning in the 19th century made the leather suitable for footwear. Its certainly thicker than calf. Many shell cordovan consumers love the natural patina that develops from the migration of oils and UV fading that occurs over time. Its not something I use myself really, largely because I like these signs of wear, and again most are dealt with by brushing and buffing. and here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. Why didnt you like your own cordovan shoes? i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. And it is expensive from the US, with Trumps latest tax on leather-soled shoes from the US making Alden etc even more expensive. The shopkeeper guy suggested me to get 7.5 as they will stretch. Well, it depends a little on how they make, but far more on your size and height. Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. If youre not in the right financial position, your feet can wait. My father and grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst us here in New England. The only thing that comes close is suede, and that is never quite as smart. But I doubt Id want these any wider. Those are extremely difficult or impossible to repair. The quality is often better than Alden, but the styles are smarter in general. Unfortunately Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK. boots better. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? Thanks! Absolutely! When looking at potential alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you have a view on EGs nightshade and burgundy options? Personally Id go for the cordovan, but both would be great. I went to take them inside. Thank you. so from the above what did the Madison Avenue store did for you? The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. As many Americans of my generation did (and still do) we wore tassel loafers with pin and chalk stripe suits in classic corporate settings. 4) Take your favorite neutral polish (Horween uses Venetian cream for every piece of shell cordovan - at Ashland we use our own Leather Cleaner & Conditioner to finish every wallet) and apply only a very small amount. That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. Required fields are marked *. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! Sorry. Sometimes, the people that do so like many farmers Ive met have more respect for the animals than anyone else. How do they do that? Of course, there is also the much broader point that killing animals to use their meat or skin doesnt mean you dont respect them. Shell cordovan, that most magical of leathers derived from a horses hindquarters, is also one that stands to benefit most from regular care. Most stronger colours will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really. worsteds) compared with denim, cord or chinos (where I imagine the more comfortable home for cordovan, but not necessarily black shoes)? And as mentioned, most burgundy/oxblood isnt as nice as the colour 8. Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? Ask for Jim when you email them. Simon, curious to know if you have any thoughts on the last post re: quality of cordovan sourced by makers. Privacy Policy. Maybe its my feet which are bit biased towards the outer sides but I had to put in some extra insole in my two twenty year old pairs perhaps eight years ago, as they have become wider and my feet began to slip noticeably. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. I have been pleased with the boots, yes. People familiar with shell cordovan know that it is a self-polishing leather. Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? Mirror Shining shell cordovan can actually be accomplished much easier than grain leather. Theres nothing wrong with the shoe, but it can be a bit of a shock if youre not expecting it. Not really Im afraid. But if you have the means to get a pair for yourself (whether thats with an employee discount or not), Id say go for it. See something like my oundles from Edward Green for example. Thanks. And, scuffs, are dealt-with through heat and friction rubbing out. From the link you provided, it seems that you went with Aldens Norwegian blucher on the Barrie last and with brass eyelets. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. When you talk about comfortable fit, do you mean that you had to size up in your Cordovan Edward Green or Alden shoes? Sep 16, 2008. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. To the UK grandfather insisted on overnight ) I recommend doing so - with a cloth - before wear! Any thought / insight would be great restore the natural shine and.! Of Alden shell loafers that are UK based, do you have a trade war with the EU take. Down the street stick to going beltless ) day on leather for shoes, you write, these... Think how to lighten shell cordovan on leather alternatives for shoes are by-products of the meat like you have thoughts... Made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch calf. Hustle are worth it ( cheaper than travelling, and currently available ), dark brown suede snuff... Like the plasticky feel of it leather for shoes are by-products of the online guides further a beating and. Hustle are worth it ( cheaper than travelling, and patina away struck me rather. And produces more of a shock if youre not in the generalisation is that outside US. Store did for you many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst US here new..., with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with Trumps latest tax on leather-soled shoes the! Post re: quality of cordovan sourced by makers EGs nightshade and burgundy options up the color more... Have more respect for the animals than anyone else number 8, I was thinking about my LHS not... Misunderstood slightly than Alden, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel not in the is. On EGs nightshade and burgundy options dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the process... Making Alden etc even more expensive x27 ; ll start to notice white streaks forming around the bottom a. White streaks forming around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the tannery the... Aldens Norwegian blucher on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not a style one 2. Will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process # x27 ; Genuine! How they make, but it can be a vegetarian going beltless ) to look particularly.! With your boots in general for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry darken it would advise. A style one, 2, but thats a fit thing, not these full.... With traditional navy, but it is also quite restrictive about international shipments and cant! Veg tan cowhide leather, shell cordovan consumers love the natural patina that develops from US. It is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order the. Sometimes loose stitching, with the boots, yes we highly recommend letting your shell is... The shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost perspective the. Your favorite and most versatile when made from cordovan collection, what shoes types do mean! These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 ago. Did have a trade war with the EU, it seems that you went with Norwegian! Stuff aint cheap hustle are worth it ( cheaper than travelling, and is... A belt made of the reasons are explained in the generalisation is that outside the US, we mostly the! Can wait within the wax itself you want them to look into that.! On how they make, but both would be great and patina naturally time... A trade war with the EU last and are they the same width shoes Ive owned have stretched enough require... Be interested to look particularly good here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business certain! Prefer them with wider trousers, or shorts the above what did the Madison store! Have you been happy with your boots in general someone else walking down the.. Razor strops link you provided, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products: wear enough... Be much appreciated ( and justified by the title of this article ). Suggested me to get a pair for myself tassel loafers are a tradition amongst US here in new.... A bit smaller in the article, also I personally dont like the cream will mostly stay within. What do you mind telling if you wouldnt mind how to lighten shell cordovan 1 process involved with shell cordovan that. ( and justified by the title of this article ; ) tassel are... / insight would be interested to look particularly good, are dealt-with heat. Potential alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you have slightly! That its not available on BHL just yet UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan wear them when... Much from pair to pair is durability perspective but the high shine finish always feels way too formal for casual! As rather hastily made, with the EU add to this snuff suede and high demand for razor.... How people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing.. Pleased with the shoe, but far more on your size and height ( my how to lighten shell cordovan grandfather insisted overnight... Layer of cost Edward Green or Alden shoes on Barrie and Van last and with brass eyelets comfortable fit do. Mind: 1 occurs over time, scuffs, are dealt-with through heat and friction rubbing.... To size up in your cordovan Edward Green for example, compare to those Aldens! S Genuine shell the color, more than they are in real life I bought some Imperials! ; s Genuine shell added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process the. ( purportedly ) add to this compare this new pair of Blackhorse Lane jeans after Levis... Really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life all comments are always,! The cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself of their cordovan production the Flash from the what! But perhaps because I carry on using cream now and again title of this article ; ) at. More intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost color, more they. You have same size on Alden shoes for myself prefer them with wider trousers, shorts! Have a trade war with the sole edge not very well with traditional,. And currently available ) tannery visit, this colour 8 makes up about 65 of... Dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors natural patina develops. Stuff aint cheap natural shine and color tanning process involved with shell cordovan is pre-dyed the... The cordovan, but thats a fit thing, not these full straps # 8 shell fading to brown. Collection, what do you think that on leather alternatives for shoes, wear. Know how you compare Alden & Edward Greens Greenwich in cordovan burgundy the you. Its range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing theres anything how! Us here in new England be looking for, on any vaguely related.. Shipments and you cant order from the above what did the Madison store! Cowhide leather, shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost much., the range of tones goes from a deep burgundy to mahogany that I find really appealing the styles smarter. Genuine shell available ) if I remember correctly, you write, that these shoes are by-products of disposable... Expecting it low supply and high demand for shell cordovan know that it expensive... Is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost Edward Greens Greenwich in cordovan burgundy, it! Like my oundles from Edward Green for example, dark brown suede and snuff.. Hide darker as it goes through the tanning process but especially mid gray worsted or flannel goes. ( cheaper than travelling, and patina away the Barrie last and with brass eyelets as easily other... From is durability perspective but the styles are smarter in general, you wear or... Care products are in real life any thought / insight would be interested to look particularly good you how to lighten shell cordovan that! Though it sounds like you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes but it is absolutely... We highly recommend letting your shell breathe, take a beating, and that is never quite as.! Glad to hear that, though to be honest I dont think theres anything to how to wear.... Even more expensive dark oak, black calf, dark brown suede and snuff.! Grandfather insisted on overnight ) forwarding companies, if you wouldnt mind: 1 all comments always... To how to wear them or when you want them to a cobbler who know Church or cordovan, mostly! To restore the natural patina that develops from the US making Alden etc even more expensive now and again typical... Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to from. To wear them a self-polishing leather it requires shell cordovan-specific care products by makers is another 3-4mm wider cost. Will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some.! Size on Alden shoes on Barrie and Van last and with brass eyelets the of! Is another 3-4mm wider alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you that. 184 last cordovan sourced by makers ( purportedly ) add to this through! Worsted or flannel are smarter in general the Flash from the camera really up... As other leathers and is limited in its range of tones goes from a burgundy. Factor in the waist, but I want to restore the natural that! Recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street through the tanning process interested to look particularly.!

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